Then and now
A market of food stuff that was set up by Heera Singh became known as Heera Mandi, contrary to the common perception associated with it. It is thought that Heera meaning diamond was attributed to the dancing girls living there
A market set up to sell ‘ghalla’ food stuffs by the handsome Sikh Sardar Heera Singh, son of Raja Dhian Singh, came to be known as Heera Mandi. Historic references tell that Heera Singh Dogra (1816-1844), prime minister of the Sikh Kingdom of Lahore from 17 September 1843 to 21 December 1844, was born the eldest son of Raja Dhian Singh in 1816 at Ramgarh, about 25 km from Jammu. Dhian Singh, an influential courtier, introduced his son to his patron Maharaja Ranjit Singh, who took very favourably to the young boy. From the very beginning the maharaja treated him with generosity, bestowing upon him the title of Raja in 1828 and, then, proclaiming him Farzand-i-Khas, (a favoured son). He granted him numerous jagirs (properties) which in total amounted to nearly five lakhs rupees (Rs500,000) annually.
A market of food stuff that was set up by Heera Singh became known as Heera Mandi, contrary to the common perception associated with it. It is thought that Heera meaning diamond was attributed to the dancing girls living there. It was never like that. A food market was set up by Heera Singh inside Taxali Gate of Lahore. Taxali Gate was one of the thirteen gates built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar. The gate does not exist today but the stories are still roaming in the air.
Today Taxali Gate and Heera Mandi are linked with prostitution and dancing girls. Let me tell my readers that the red light area was originally located inside Lohari Gate of walled city of Lahore, which shifted to Taxali gate with the passage of time during the Mughal Era. The place where the Ghalla Mandi by Heera Singh was developed was originally the center of the city’s tawaif culture in the Mughal era. Heera Mandi was known as the “Shahi Mohalla”, it was a specific place where the servants and courtesans of the king used to live. The female courtesans after a specific age and time were sent to this place. It was never a place for prostitution in the Mughal era. This was one of the noblest places and a paradise for the performing arts enthusiasts and lovers. The women living there were the personification of the same. Many of them were trained in music, manners and dance by the best ustads (masters) of the time. They were queens of etiquette and the nobles would send their children to them to learn manners, etiquettes and develop a specific learned behaviour. The women of this area were a social symbol for the elites and their presence at ceremonies was considered a statement of class and sophistication. It is said by the historians that not everyone could enter the bazaar and it was reserved solely for those with social and financial standing. This place was never a social taboo.
Historic references say that with the British taking over this place of the city a new trend came in for pleasing the soldiers. That was the time when the city got a new propensity of an open market place for pleasure. It was then that the bazaar began to gain a negative image and was accessed by all. The learning and cultural center was developed into a pleasure house with prostitutes in most of the streets. Laws were passed to regulate gambling, as well as prostitution. The Heera Mandi was selected as a Red Light area, not merely for its convenience, but also due to the fact that the Badshahi mosque was just near the place. It gave them good propaganda mechanism to bring discredit to the Muslims. Despite this the culture, performing arts, music and dancing remained a monopoly of Heera Mandi for years.
After partition during the Zia era, a rigorous operation was conducted against these vendors of pleasure, because these ‘musicians’ were actually running brothel houses in the guise of music and dance. Of course, the operation didn’t root out this iniquity and instead it scattered all over the city.
This place has another side as well. It is the busiest eating hub of the walled city. Phaja Paye Wala, Taj Mahal Sweets, Arif Chatkhra, Cucoo’s Den, Andaaz, Fort Road Food Street and many more restaurants are frequented by visitors. The place gives a view of the grand Badshahi Mosque of Lahore. With the development of Azadi Chowk and Greater Iqbal Park the place has won more importance.
So let us clear this misconception, Taxali gate was not always famous for its brothel houses, it was a cultural hub. Once nobles and historical figures lived there; this area also hosts the oldest cinema of Pakistan, “Pakistan Talkies”, which was known as the Nazir Theatre before partition. Heera Mandi has raised some outstanding performing artists, including the famous Noor Jahan, Khurshid Begum, Shamshad Begum, Mumtaz Shanti and many others. House of Sir Ganga Ram is also in the same area. The houses of Ustad Amir Khan and bethak of Ustaad Daman were there. Earlier this bethak was known as Hujra-e Shah Hussain for it served as a retreat for the great sufi poet. Ustad Sardar Khan Dilli Wale ki baithak, held near Taxali Gate, was one of the most respected baithaks. Ustad Barkat Ali Khan’s baithak, held in Heera Mandi chowk, was known for thumri and ghazal singing while baithak of Ustaad Chotey Ashiq Ali Khan was a great exponent of khayal singing. There were also Dangals that were duels organised by music lovers that afforded musicians a public forum to compete with each other. The famous dangal between Ustad Baray Ghulam Ali Khan and Ustad Umeed Ali Khan was also held in Heera Mandi.
So let us clear this misconception, Taxali gate was not always famous for its brothel houses, it was a cultural hub. Once nobles and historical figures lived there; this area also hosts the oldest cinema of Pakistan, “Pakistan Talkies”
This is the Heera Singh’s Mandi and the beauty of it is still in the history though the people have misunderstood it. With the opening of elite food street and other places this places is again regaining its glory but the actual culture of music is fading away. The famous music instrument market is also dying and most of the music masters have also passed away along with their performance. Heera Mandi once became a place where the people avoided visiting, but I am happy it is regaining its image now. The prostitution trade has moved out of this place now and you will hardly find any there along with the dancers. Now it’s only an eating hub, rest of the cultures and trades have vanished.
