Another treasure of history dying a slow, ugly death
This place was not meant to be like this. The Parks and Horticulture Authority tried illuminating this ensemble in 2001 but that effort also ultimately failed. Had this place been in any other country of the world, it would have been the biggest tourist spot of that country
I remember my childhood days when we would go to Lahore Fort through Alamgiri Gate and enjoyed walking in Huzoori Bagh. The great ensemble of the fort, Huzoori Bagh and Badshahi Mosque, was a treasured place for all. I can clearly recall the events being held in the same garden, children playing around, and people of all ages enjoying the shadows of the trees with smiles on their faces. Suddenly Huzoori Bagh was barred for the general public. The mausoleum of Allama Iqbal was closed for the ones who wanted to pay respect to the poet of the east. The Alamgiri Gate was locked for the public and the postern gate of Lahore fort was made the entrance and ticket booth. Only Badshahi Mosque was to be accessed from the Huzoori Bagh and for that too only a small patch was kept open. The consequence was that a part of history was taken was taken away from the ones who visited the Huzoori Bagh. Evening and night gatherings of writers, poets and heritage lovers met death. Then came a time when the Badshahi Mosque was also closed for the people after Maghrib prayers. Nobody ever thought that all these measure would take away the source of leisure from the people of Lahore who had ages old affiliation with the historic setting. Now, at night there is a horrific scene of the Huzoori Bagh ensemble with no lights and the only life seen is the bats, dogs and cats or the security guards.
This place was not meant to be like this. The Parks and Horticulture Authority tried illuminating this ensemble in 2001 but that effort also ultimately failed. Had this place been in any other country of the world, it would have been the biggest tourist spot of that country. This is a sad scene. We only know to shun away masses from recreational spots under the so called security threat, but we never make arrangements to fight the threats and keep our places alive. I usually question people that why recreational spots and tourist sites are always closed with the threat of security, why not political and religious processions?
For my readers, let me take you to the importance of this ensemble. The Huzoori Bagh is a small enclosure between the Alamgiri Gate of the Lahore Fort and eastern gate of the Badshahi Mosque. This garden originally served as the Serai (resting area) of Aurangzeb Alamgir, the Mughal Emperor. A forecourt was built leading to the Badshahi Mosque from where the Mughal ruler would enter the mosque. Once it was a place where the Mughal king briefed his troops and interacted with them. Later it was given a new look by Maharajah Ranjit Singh in 1813 to celebrate the achievement of the famous Koh-i-Noor Diamond from Shah Shujah of Afghanistan. Expert gardeners were engaged for the purpose of laying it out. As per historians the marble baradari within the garden’s centre was constructedfive years later; that is in the year 1818. The Serai Alamgiri formerly stood there. A royal garden was then planned around the pavilion and built under the supervision of Faqir Azizuddin in the traditional Mughal style layout. After its completion, it is said, Ranjit Singh, at the suggestion of Jamadar Khushhal Singh, ordered that marble vandalised from various mausoleums of Lahore to be used to construct a bara dari (pavilion) here. This task of building the bara dari was given to Khalifa Nooruddin. Elegant carved marble pillars supported the bara dari’s delicate cusped arches. The word bara dari, literally meaning ‘with twelve doors’, signifies a square structure with three entrances on each side, making twelve entrances altogether. The bara dari has been constructed on a raised platform with two sets of stairs providing access from each side. The façade of the bara dari has been totally rendered in white marble. The ornamentation technique used on the façade is mainly relief work (a decorative technique where stone or wood is carved out to create images), with jali work being employed in places. Elaborate arches have been carved out on the exterior of the bara dari. These arches boast delicately rendered images of fruit dishes, vases and peacocks. Again, all of these have been done in relief. Moving into the bara dari one sees that the bara dari has a central portion and an outer portion. Sixteen beautifully ornamented pillars or columns, divide the central portion of the bara dari from the outer one. Three archways on each side lead from the outer section into the central section of the bara dari; thus it can be said that another bara dari is enclosed within the main bara dari.
The central area, where Ranjit Singh held court, had a mirrored ceiling. The flooring within the bara dari in similar fashion to the ceiling; has not been laid out in white marble; rather, it has been made out of stone. The reason for this was a shortage of white marble left for the construction of the bara dari.
The marble pavilion also has a basement. This is something which many of us didn’t know as it has always been closed for the public. There is no source of light and even during the day time, the basement is terribly dark and horrific. The entire basement is in shambles awaiting some kind of restoration and protection.
After partition this place was used for several activities. People of the walled city would gather there to recite and narrate old tales and stories known as Qissa Khawani. The epics of Heer Ranjha were shared along with the tales of Sassi Pannu and other sufi poetry. In those days the area was opened for the common public
Within this bara dari, Ranjit Singh used to sit in state and transact the business of the empire with his ministers and his sardars. Later, Maharaja Sher Singh, son of Ranjit Singh and Rani Mehtab Kaur, enjoyed the gilded pavilion for his not entirely private amours as he used to hold his court and exhibit his state here. When the British assumed control of Lahore, they made this pavilion a bandstand from which music was played regularly on Sunday afternoons. In July 1932, the upper storey collapsed due to a strong storm and was never rebuilt. The upper most storeys were constructed by using the marble from the Mughal Emperor Jahangir’s tomb which is located in Shahdara. The debris was removed to the fort and since that time it has been reduced to a single-storied level.
After partition this place was used for several activities. People of the walled city would gather there to recite and narrate old tales and stories known as Qissa Khawani. The epics of Heer Ranjha were shared along with the tales of Sassi Pannu and other sufi poetry. In those days the area was opened for the common public but the basements were closed. The Roshnai Gates built at two ends one by British and the other by Mughals both were opened for the community and it was a socialising spot.
I have heard that the present government is taking steps to reopen the Huzoori Bagh for the public and illuminate it for night gatherings and tourism. They also plan to link up the garden with the newly developed Greater Iqbal Park. I hope this works out soon and the garden is again brought to life with these small steps.
