Cultural revival of Lahore
Masjid Wazir Khan was built in 1634 AD under orders of Hakim Ilm ud Din the then prime minister of 5th Mughal King Shah Jahan
Chowk is often categorised as a marketplace, market area, a courtyard, a road junction or a roundabout. The walled city of Lahore is known for different Chowks like Chowk Kotwali, Chowk Bukhari, Chowk Jhanda, Chowk Heera Mandi, etc. One of the known chowks of the walled city is also the Wazir Khan Chowk, which is the open space inside Delhi Gate just outside the Wazir Khan Mosque.
Masjid Wazir Khan was built in 1634 AD under orders of Hakim Ilm ud Din the then prime minister of 5th Mughal King Shah Jahan. The mosque is located in the middle of Walled City of Lahore. This mosque is known as masterpiece of Mughal architecture due to its style, solid structure, profusion and delicacy of its decorative motifs. Other important feature of this mosque is the presence of Hujras and shops on its eastern and northern sides which were constructed to make the mosque sustainable through income generated by these Hujras and shops. The most interesting feature of this grand mosque is also the open space or the chowk outside it. This chowk had been the hub of cultural activities which included bethak system (small gatherings), food stalls and other temporary stalls which would sell the traditional or cultural items. As in other monuments of Lahore, the area around this mosque was also affected badly due to unplanned development and encroachments in the form on houses, shops and roads. With the passage of time the levels of road on northern side and open area on eastern side of the mosque were raised and hujras and shops were filled and blocked and several encroachments snatched the beauty of the open space. The space was used by the welding vendors, car parking and at night for storing goods and parking freight vehicles. The open space that was once reflecting the hustle and bustle of the walled city life was completely damaged. The access to the grand Mosque was obstructed and created a bad image before the tourists. Finally under a restoration plan of the Royal Trail inside Delhi Gate, the encroachments from Wazir Khan Mosque were removed in 2012 and some in 2016. Meanwhile the same authority with the help of Aga Khan trust for culture planned to conserve the open space outside the Mosque, so that the beauty of the Mosque is not injured further. Beside other consolidation and repair works of the mosque structure, it was also decided to repair the shops and hujras, and restore the original floor levels of Shah Jahan period in front of main entrance of the Mosque.
Finally in the year 2015 the conservation of the mosque and the square began. The funds for the open square were given by the US ambassador’s fund. Here comes something interesting now. For the purpose of conservation the excavation started and a few test pits were dug at different places on the northern and eastern sides of the mosque, which produced encouraging results. On the basis of which it was decided to conduct a proper excavation. Before the excavation of the outside area of mosque it was planned to dig two soak wells for disposal of rain water on extreme ends of the chowk in southeastern and north-eastern corner of the area.
Pottery collected from layers ranged from 17th to 20th century AD, and the potsherd collected from lower layers beneath the floor were of 12 to 13th century AD
Excavations were started in soak well, on the south eastern corner of open area in front of the mosque and carried down to the depth of 5’-6”. At that level a brick on edge floor was revealed. This floor was found in damaged condition due to fixing of an electricity pole at this particular point in the past. Over this original floor level five episodes of raising the level of the area with debris were noticed by the experts. These debris layers were mixed with brick bats, potshards, ashes, charcoals, iron fragments, sand, animals’ bones and kanker lime plaster fragments, etc, which was a clear indication that this area was intentionally filled and raised. At a depth of 8’-6” a number of human bones were exposed which showed that those bones were reburied at this place. After the removal of those disturbed bones, a complete human skeleton, buried in a grave, was exposed with orientation of north-south with its face towards west. It seemed to be a Muslim grave. All these bones were reburied in a nearby graveyard after completing all necessary requirements needed and according to religious practice. This also indicated that at some point the place was used as a graveyard as well. As per historic record, this particular area was known as “rarrh” and used as grave yard in Sultanate period (1206-1526) AD. This grave was unearthed at the depth of 8’-10” from the top floor level. The depth of this grave was almost the same as the grave of Hazrat Ishaq Gazooni located in an underground chamber in the courtyard of the mosque.
To my surprise some pottery was also found during the excavation process. Pottery collected from layers ranged from 17th to 20th century AD, and the potsherd collected from lower layers beneath the floor were of 12 to 13th century AD. The pottery found had rims, utensil bases, body shreds of small and medium sized pots, oil lamps and jars, etc.
In my discussion with the professionals and expert of Aga Khan Trist for Culture I came to know that the project of conservation of this chowk aimed at exposing the full façade of the mosque and restoring the chowk by taking down the pavement level of the chowk to its historic level. It will also help reviving the urban open space by reorganising it to be used for enhancement of the visual environment and for communal activities.
I think if this chowk is revived which the authority claims till 2017, it will boost tourism activities inside the walled city and especially on the royal trail. Open spaces inside the walled city of Lahore are hard to find now. This chowk has always been important and it will surely add to the glamour of the monument. It can be converted into an activity hub for the evenings, and I wish festivals like literary festival, Faiz festival and many others are held there. Also, it can provide a good platform for sufi festivals and qawali nights. Community activities can also be held at this open square. Let’s see till when we achieve all these aims, but these are important for the revival of heritage and culture.
