Royal wilderness

Another piece of heritage crying out for better care

There is a no go area inside the Lahore Fort, and I am sure like me many of you are not familiar with it. This part is the backside of grand Alamgiri Gate known as the Royal Kitchens or the Shahi Bawarchi Khana. The entrance to this area is from the postern gate as you climb the steep at your right.

A narrow passage will lead you to the place but make sure you watchfully enter the place as it is suspected of having dangerous reptiles there. Despite this, the site is awe inspiring. You will see a mesmerising structure, but much collapsed. The walls, all built in small brick, have developed huge cracks. The majestic arches are attached together form the Royal Kitchen area. Standing in the arches you can imagine the past glory of the place with the hustle and bustle of the chefs and helpers while cooking food for the kings, queens, etc, and carrying it to their private chambers and dining rooms. Today there is a completely different scenario. The place is in a shambles and unfortunately now the royal kitchen is pleading for maintenance.

At present the conservation of the Royal Kitchen is being carried out by the Walled City of Lahore Authority, which is a local government organisation looking after the Lahore Fort

If we talk about history, like many other parts of Lahore Fort the history of this place was also controversial. Historians quoted that the Royal Kitchens were constructed during the reign of Emperor Shah Jahan. It was where the food was prepared along with a huge variety of drinks and sweets. The helpers would carry the food from there to the private chambers of the king, queen, princes, princesses and other courtiers. When the Sikhs took over the Lahore Fort, the Royal Kitchens were damaged like many other buildings inside the Fort. The kitchen was converted into a food store room and at the same time it was used as a stable for horses and other animals. The British in 1849 converted it into interrogation cells and jails. During that time the open verandas were closed with bricks and new structures like iron doors and beams were added along with the construction of an upper storey. The upper storey served as offices for policemen. The electricity supply lines, sewage system and water drains were laid during the British period. During the British Rule, another storey was added in the building. Some historians and architects claim that the structure we see today is the upper most storey of the building and the original kitchens are buried below. On the other hand some historians and architects believed that the kitchens never existed there and to look for history, excavation and digging of the place is required. 

Now, coming to what happened to this place after the partition, it is said that the police department used it as interrogation cells until late 1980s, when they were handed over to the Archaeology Department. After partition the building of Royal Kitchen was agonised more than ever. The beams, wooden doors and windows were taken away. Maybe those were pulled down during the riots. The building was extremely dilapidated and later some of the dilapidated parts were demolished and the offices of Archeology Department were constructed there. The building that we see today is the remaining part of the huge kitchen complex. Much of the parts were demolished and many collided with the passage of time.

The building was extremely dilapidated and later some of the dilapidated parts were demolished and the offices of Archeology Department were constructed there

At present the conservation of the Royal Kitchen is being carried out by the Walled City of Lahore Authority, which is a local government organisation looking after the Lahore Fort. The Royal Kitchens were dilapidated and found in deplorable conditions. A proper documentation of the building is being carried out by experienced architects and conservationists. The waist high shrubs and bushes have also been cleaned now. It is proposed by the authority that this place after conservation will be turned into a night café. As the place is slightly outside the main area of the Lahore Fort, therefore, it will be used as a café cum restaurant in the evenings. The place will also be illuminated and special food and ambiance will be given to attract the tourists and visitors. With the ongoing conservation the myths related to the existence of Royal Bath also seem changing. The labour engaged in excavation has found the kitchen burners, tandoor and other items which endorse the foundations of a kitchen.

In my opinion this will be a good initiative to revive the lost glory of the place. A no go area will be turned into a tourist spot and this will also attract and increase the night tourism. I hope along with this that the Fort is also illuminated at night for tourists. Let’s see if the wishes are turned into reality.