Baij Nath and the Havelli

Nowhere in the world will you find the treasure of heritage similar to the walled city of Lahore. This area of Pakistan is the largest living cultural hub in the world. Till today inside this city of thirteen gates you will come across the magnificent houses, havelis and monuments. The most interesting part is the people living inside these places. From generation to generation the people are happily living inside their havelis (homes). If you ask them about moving out of the congested neighbourhood they will not be willing. These people have developed a strange sense of affiliation with the place. Despite the lack of urban facilities and narrow streets crowded with people, the residents of the walled city are happy with the place.

Let me take you to another wonder inside the walled city of Lahore, a living haveli. Traversing through the giant arches of Delhi Gate you can take the straight path to Phoolon Wali Gali (a street) on the left where there is located the huge haveli of Diwan Baij Nath. The façade of the haveli is on the main Royal Trail and the entrance to the Haveli is from the rear street. It closely connects itself with the Chiitta Gate as well which leads you to the Wazir Khan square.

The haveli is not very well maintained rather many new additions have been made inside it for accommodating family members. The remains of the old building like a few balconies, basements, fresco on the walls and doors are still intact. The façade of this haveli was restored in 2014 by the Walled City of Lahore Authority during the restoration work of the Royal Trail. The Haveli is also illuminated at night for the tourists visiting the Royal Trail. It is one of the largest havelis located on the Royal Trail. The total area of the haveli is 84 marla, which is a huge covered space inside the walled city.

The residents told me that there was a fountain in the courtyard which was covered later on to create more space. There were rooms serving as temples inside the haveli but after partition and according to the needs of residents many parts of it were changed and modified. These modifications resulted in the reuse of rooms and other portions of the haveli. The façade of the haveli is most attractive on the Royal Trail. The stylish balconies and jharokas attract the visitor the most. After partition fifty families were residing in the haveli and in 1978 the haveli was sold. At present almost twenty families are living inside this haveli. The haveli is not a tourist spot and neither a part of any guided tour. One has to seek permission of the owners to photograph the place. The people of the walled city are welcoming so it is easy to make access to any haveli.

The huge haveli was named after the owner; Diwan Baij Nath, who was the only son of his illustrious father, Diwan Ajodhia Prashad, who by his skill and diplomacy snatched power and prestige from various masters in succession. Diwan Baij Nath started life under the shadow of the greatness of his father, in whose lifetime he commenced training for official life in the office of Major Abbott, Deputy Commissioner of Hazara, and was made a Tehsildar one year after the Mutiny. Four years later he was brought to Lahore as an Extra Assistant Commissioner. At the instance of his father Baij Nath resigned but was immediately made an Honorary EAC and was later on raised to the position of an Assistant Commissioner in 1873. Next year his services were lent to the Kapurthala State, but he had to vacate his seat within a year to make room for a British officer. The Diwan proceeded thence on a pilgrimage to Kangra and was on his way back to Lahore when he had an attack of cholera and died after a brief illness on 18 August 1875.

In my opinion, the government should start protecting these places. Most of the people living inside the havelis are not economically stable and cannot afford to carry out the maintenance of the place. This results in its deterioration, which no doubt hurts our heritage. If the people cannot preserve and maintain these sites, at least the government should come forward. Another way of a self sustainable model for all havelis could be tourist tickets. If the government puts a small ticket on these havelis then the people will have an alternate income source for maintaining it. Another fact is that most of the people do not realise the importance of the place they are living in. if these places become ticketed tourist spots it can result in awareness about heritage.