The wholesale world in a heritage city

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    The rich colours, the aromatic streets and the vivacious life

    The colours added by the bazaars to the life of the walled city are matchless. Though some people take this commercialisation negatively, but in my opinion, if things are properly administered the commercialisation will not be a threat to the walled city’s original fabric. Suppose if zones of special value are declared and the residents and traders are informed about them, why would commercialisation cause harm? It’s just that we don’t want to work a little harder.

    Anyhow, coming back to our theme, let me take you to the shoe market, rather Asia’s biggest shoe market inside the Masti Gate near the Mosque of Mariyam Zamani Begum, in the Moti Bazaar. It is famous for wholesale trading and shoes are supplied to the entire country and exported from here. The name of this bazaar is said to be famous since the Mughal era. In those days this area was called Bazaar-e-Husn (red-light area) and with the passage of time those people shifted to Shahi Mohalla in Taxali and this bazaar transformed into a shoe market.

    Sarafa Bazaar is the gold old market, also known as Sooha Bazaar. It is the largest market of Pakistan. With almost 500 shops Sarafa Bazaar was established in the 1960s. Earlier this area was occupied by cobblers and tailors but with the establishment of few gold shops a huge bazaar sprung up. This bazaar is near the Rang Mahal chowk and can be easily accessed from the Waan Market or the Kasera Bazaar through Delhi Gate and Shah Alami Gate. The amazing jewellery designs found there are supplied to the branded gold sellers. Wacho Wali Bazaar is situated near Sarafa Bazaar. This bazaar has existed since 1952. It’s a slaughter house and you will find a lot of meat around, an interesting sight. Fresh meat can be bought from there anytime. This market is shrinking now as many shopkeepers are moving out of the walled city and developing business in greater Lahore. Chatta Bazaar is the largest hub of silver metal. This market exists along with the Sarafa Bazaar in Rang Mahal chowk.

    Kinari Bazaar is also situated near Rang Mahal chowk .This bazaar has been around for more than 100 years. Before partition most of the shops belonged to Hindus and Sikhs. Presently there are about 150 shops in this market. Kinari Bazaar is famous for all kinds of embroidered formal dresses. Gumti Bazaar is located near Kinari Bazaar. This market is just 25 to 30 years old. It also deals in embroidered clothes but those are cheaper than the ones in Kinari Bazaar. A renowned Indian actor Om Parkash was the resident of this bazaar before partition. Shisha Moti Bazaar also exists near Gumti Bazaar. In the forty shops of this bazaar you will find all the accessories for shoe making like rexine, leather, etc.

    Now comes the soul of the walled city, the Shah Alami Market, located inside the Shah Alami Gate, which was one of the thirteen gates of the walled city built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar. This has been a flourishing centre of commerce for over a century and it is still escalating. Accessories like cosmetics, electronics, handicrafts, antiques, stationery, crockery, genuine items and imitation, brand new, reconditioned or spare parts – anything one can think of is available there. There are nearly ten thousand shops in this market. You wish for anything and you will find it there and that too cheaper than greater Lahore.

    There is a never ending range of bazaars in the walled city, now let me take you to the optical market known as the Ainak Market outside Shah Alami Gate. This market has existed since the 1970. There are 120 shops in this market. The surrounding area has optical factories and warehouses.

    Here again comes something for my female readers, a huge variety of bangles. The bangle market was established in the 1950s. One is awe struck at the variety and vibrancy of the bazaar. Thousands of glittering colours welcome you into a dazzling world. Some people say that there existed some Hindu Temples in that area as well which were demolished and later this market was established with almost a hundred shops.

    This is one of the most interesting bazaars inside the walled city, located in the notorious Taxali Gate, the Sheikhupurian Bazaar. It’s a Mughal period bazaar and was named after Shehzada Saleem whose nick name was Sheikhu. This market is renowned for leather khussas and Kola Puri Chappals. These shoes are exported also. With a hundred and twenty five shops it is the biggest khussa market.

    The tunes and melodies of traditional music will enfold you as you move a little ahead from the Sheikhupurian Bazaar. Lahnga Mandi is the biggest and busiest market of musical instruments. The market is situated along the Shahi Mohalla inside Taxali Gate. You will find sitar, dholak, tabla, duf, harmonium, guitars, pianos, flutes, violins and all that makes a melody, in this bazaar.

    All the gem stone lovers go to Lohari Gate if they need genuine stones at a cheaper cost. This market exists between Shah Alami Gate and Lohari Gate. You will find a huge street of gem stone vendors and trust me they are all selling the real stones. People from far flung areas go there to purchase stones. Rubies, sapphires, moon stones, graphite, opal and all gems you can think of are there. Another wonder, the Papar Mandi Bazaar, also exists between Shah Alami Gate and Lohari Gate. It’s a market of herbs, perfumes and murabba jaat. Nearly three hundred shops are located in this market.

    A market that is much disliked by the public is the Rim Market, which trades in alloy rims for vehicles. It is located outside the Masti Gate and faces the Akbari Gate of Lahore Fort. The negative point about this market is that it gives an ugly look, creates traffic jams and is an encroachment upon the Mosque of Mariyam Zamani Begum. The heritage lovers including myself are of the view that this market should be relocated; let’s see what fate it meets.

    The walled city of Lahore is incomplete without the blazing and dazzling bazaars. The rich colours, the aromatic streets and the vivacious life in the streets are the true Lahore. I suggest these are a must visit.

    Note: This is part two of a two-part feature. The first part appeared here last week.