A mark of the Mughal Empire — Mochi Gate

Wonder of wonders

Digging out stories of the Walled City of Lahore is a never ending task. Each brick, nook and corner holds the letterings of past glories and tales. So is this another gate, the Mochi Darwaza (Gate). Located in south of the Walled City of Lahore, Mochi Gate is another noteworthy speck of the Mughal Empire. It is one of the thirteen gates of the Walled City of Lahore or “Androon Lahore”. These gates were built during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar along with a thirty feet high fortified wall for guarding the city. With the passing chapters of time, several transformations took place in this city and the Gates too endured changes, especially in their names. Several traditions are coupled with the name of this very gate too. According to some historians the name of the gate is marred form of “Moti”. Pandit Moti Ram, a guard in the reign of Akbar used to watch over the gate and remained attached to his post till he breathed his last. For this reason the gate was named after him. However, some historians avow that “Mochi” is the marred form of Urdu word “Morchi” which means “Trench Soldier”. It is further supported by the fact that the different streets (Mohallahs) which still bear their old names like Mohalla Teer-garan (arrow craftsmen), Mohalla Kaman-garan (bow craftsmen). Even till today we find bazaars on the same names hence the second one makes more sense.

Like many other gates of the Walled City, this gate was also completely pulled down during the British period but was never built again. The British established a garden beside the road which has been the scene of many historical meetings and processions held by different political parties and other groups. Now the marks of the gate are hard to locate because of changes in the land use and additions of structures and houses.

Like many other gates of the Walled City, this gate was also completely pulled down during the British period but was never built again

The Mochi Gate is between the Akbari Gate and the Shah Alam Gate. This location has affected the land use and most of the residential area has been taken away by the commercialisation. While walking on the Mochi Gate trail we come across big markets like Bazaar Kamaan Garan, Dana Market, Baraa Market, Alamgir Market, and Itefaq Market which by design connects with the Shah Alam.

Mochi Gate has more of its association with the religious processions during the month of Moharram because of the two main Havelis namely Nisar and Mubarik Havelis and Mohallah Shi’a located there. The processions of Moharram gather in these Havelis. This is not all that Mochi gate has. The dried fruit markets, sweet shops, eatables and other houses append the splendor of this historical gate.

A few steps away from Mohallah Shian there is a “Khoya Bazaar” and the Mosque of “Mullah Muhammad Saleh Kamboh” who was a teacher of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. This mosque was once as stunning as Wazir Khan Mosque but due to negligence and lack of maintenance, it has lost its grandeur. However, few remains of the fresco are still visible on its outer walls and inner chambers. This is a must see place in this gate.

Another mosque worth mentioning is the Mosque of Mullah Majeed near Nisar Haveli inside Mohallah Chehal Bibian. Mullah Majeed was a foreign trader who often visited Lahore for business. Being religious and to invest his earnings in a noble cause he constructed this Mosque.

While walking inside the twisting streets we come across unique street names like Gali Bandooq Sazan, Noor Gali, Koocha Kaman Garan, Gali Rani Gul begum, Koocha Chabak Sawaran which finally joins with Rang Mehal Chowk.

The Haveli of Mian Khan is also located inside the Mochi gate and can also be accessed from Shah Almi Gate. This massive Haveli was built in Emperor Shah Jahan`s reign by his Prime Minister Nawab Saadullah Khan. It was completed during the reign of Emperor Aurangzeb by the Nawab`s son, Mian Khan, who was the then governor of Lahore. When the British took over Lahore in 1849, they converted Rang Mahal into a Mission School. Till date, the building is in use of the school.

While traversing in the narrow snaking streets of the Mochi Gate, you cannot escape the aroma of “Das Kulcha with Lonchara” which is the mouthwatering breakfast and also a delicacy

While traversing in the narrow snaking streets of the Mochi Gate, you cannot escape the aroma of “Das Kulcha with Lonchara” which is the mouthwatering breakfast and also a delicacy of the gate since decades. This gate is also known for meat kebabs and other dishes. We also find the famous Fazal Sweets shop here, the owner of which had migrated from Kashmir to Lahore in 1933 seeking a better future for himself. He was utterly skilled in the art of sweet making. He won the hearts of the Lahoris with his specialty “Paithay ka halwa” which he introduced in Lahore for the first time. Initially he opened his shop twice a week and the people eagerly waited for it.

Beside these shops, there is “Muhallah Sadakaraan” where one of the great classical singers of the subcontinent “Ustad Chotay Ghulam Ali Khan” lived. It is unfortunate that most of the people have no idea about him and his art and it is a forgotten chapter of history.

The value of these places need to be communicated to the youngsters so that they cherish the relics of their forefathers and take pride in it. We spend holidays in different parts of the world ignoring our own heritage. I suggest plan a trip to walled city this time and you will be lost in a world of wonders forever.