Digging into lost glory
The Lahore fort, also known as Shahi Qila, is a reflection of many centuries. The earliest reference to the fort comes in a history of Lahur (Lahore) compiled by Al-Biruni, which refers to a fort constructed in the early 11th century. He further notes that Munshi Sujan Rae Bhandari, author of the Khulasat-ut-Tawarikh in 1695-96 AD, records that Malik Ayaz, a favourite of Sultan Mahmud, built a masonry fort at Lahore and repopulated the city. Khan believes it is the same fort that was destroyed by the Mongols in 1241 and in 1398 by a detachment of Timur’s army after which it was rebuilt again in 1421 by Sayyid, son of Khizr Khan.
Mughal emperor Akbar the great demolished the earlier mud fort and re-built it in burnt brick in 1566. Akbar’s successors, Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb added several buildings to the fort.
Lahore fort is located in the north-western corner of the walled city of Lahore. Though irregular in scheme the fort measures about 427 meters east-west and 335 meters north-south, excluding the fortification wall added later during the Sikh rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1799 – 1839 AD). It is enclosed within a strong fortification wall, built in small burnt bricks. The main gates are located in the middle of the east and the west walls. A gateway, providing access to the private apartment of the royalty, exists in the northwest corner. The fort was essentially a fortress-palace, but it also served as an abode for the royal treasury and a stronghold in the event of war.
After the fall of the Mughal dynasty in the Punjab in the 18th century, the Sikhs occupied the fort. Maharaja Ranjit Singh added several pavilions on the upper ramparts. In 1849, the fort came under the British military occupation. Modifications to the fort were made during the British colonial period but consisted mainly of converting older buildings into hospitals, barracks, and serving other colonial functions.
Maharaja Ranjeet Singh built his rooms on the upper story of the Sheesh Mahal. Moti Masjid was turned into a temple and renamed Moti Mandir. Later the mosque was used as a building for the state treasury. The royal kitchen was turned into a food storage and horse stable. The Ath Dara (building with eight openings) was constructed outside Sheesh Mahal, which was used for kacheri (court). The gilt frescos paintings on its northern wall made by Maharaja Ranjit’s court artists reflect the style of Kangra School (legend of Krishna) of painting. Haveli of Kharak Singh was added in Jahangir’s Quadrangle. After the death of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Kharak Singh became the king but was unable to keep control of a huge kingdom due to which prince Nau Nihal took control of the state himself.
During the British rule, more additions were made to the Deewna-e-Aam. It was turned into a hospital and dispensary. The main wall at different parts was extended thus blocking the view of the picture wall and the Badshahi Mosque. The British jail was constructed for the prisoners and the royal kitchens were turned into prison cells. Another storey was added for the residences of the officers and police. Similarly Emperor Jahangir’s sleeping chamber was converted into a dining hall and the haram was converted into guest houses. The kitchens for the British were built on the roof top of the Deewan-e-Aam.
In 1899, on the orders of Lord Curzon the viceroy of the sub-continent, the Moti Masjid was restored to its former status, and some of the religious remnants were preserved at the Badshahi mosque.
The fort has almost 21 different buildings in it. Those lying in the northern half are grouped in four blocks or quadrangles. The fort is the only monument in Pakistan which represents a complete history of Mughal architecture and the eras following it. The architecture of Akbar’s period in the fort is characterised mainly by the use of red sand stone and cut brick work. The use of animal figures such as lions, elephants and peacocks as well as sculptured gargoyles, as brackets to support the chajja of dalans (eaves of chambers) in Jahangir’s Quadrangle shows the Hindu elements used in the Mughal architecture of Akbar and Jahangir’s period. The buildings of Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb periods provide a striking contrast with the former. The use of marble in place of red sand stone, and exuberance of the Persian motifs, pietra-dura and glazed tile mosaic work, are the chief characteristics of the buildings added by Shah Jahan, the prince architect of South-East Asia.
While visiting the fort one must not miss the Akbari Gate which is the royal gate on the eastern side of the Lahore fort. It was built during the period of the third Mughal emperor Akbar the great.
Another gigantic gate is the Alamgiri Gate built by Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir. It opens in the Hazoori Bagh. It shows a military and pleasing blend of strength, grace and grandeur as well. It has two semi-circular bastions decorated with lotus petal designs at the base.
The main entrance to the fort these days is the Shah Burj Gate, which speaks aloud of its own grandeur. It was built by Shah Jahan in 1631-32. The gate was originally reserved exclusively for royal family and courtiers.
One is taken back into the eras of the past while entering the Makatib Khana which is almost four steps below the ground level. It was built in 1617 during the reign of Jahangir, under the supervision of Mamur Khan. It served as the house for clerks of the court.
One can see Diwan-e-Am (hall of public audience) right from the Makatib Khana. Shah Jahan in 1631-3 ordered to construct the hall of forty pillars which was completed in three years under the supervision of Asif Khan (brother of Nur Jahan, the empress of Shah Jahan’s father, Jahangir).
Daulat Khana-e-Khas-o-Aam is another masterpiece. It is the backside of Diwan-e-Aam and includes among other things, the jharoka, or the state balcony.
As you step into the Jahangir’s Quadrangle you see the fountains running which give you the most pleasant feel in the fort. Having been built at the cost of seven hundred thousands of rupees, its features reflect Hindu temple architecture referring to Akbar’s policy of tolerance. The main building of the court standing in the middle of the north side was Jahangir’s own sleeping chamber, and is known as ‘Bari Khawabgah’.
On the east of the Lal Burj, in the middle of the northern side of Shah Jahan’s quadrangle, is the Diwan-e-Khas, which is the Shah Jahan’s quadrangle. Built entirely in chaste white marble, it is a graceful arched pavilion, with its parapet embellished with inlay work.
There we see another mind blowing Shahi Hammam (royal bath) but smaller than the royal bath seen inside Delhi Gate. It was built by Shah Jahan in about 1633 AD. There were single baths on its four corners, out of which only two on the southwest and northern-west corner still exist. Only nobles of high rank were permitted there.
Next to the Shahi Hammam is the ladies garden, the Paien Bagh. Sweet fragrant flower plants of all seasons, cypresses and fruit trees were planted in the gardens. Paved paths have also been provided in the garden.
Here comes the Ath Dara (buildings with eight openings) which leads to the majestic Shish Mahal. No one can explain this monument in a paragraph. It is one of the most majestic palaces of the Mughal period. It was constructed under the supervision of Asif Khan for Emperor Shah Jahan in 1631-32 AD.
Here we also find the most expensive building of the fort, the Naulakha Pavilion, and the name is after the cost of rupees’ nine lacs spent on its construction. This edifice is renowned for its entirely delicate and minute pietra dura work, wrought in semi-precious stone such as agate, jade, lapis-lazuli, and goldstone, etc. The two structures flanking this pavilion on the east and the west are known as Lal Burj and Kala Burj.
We see the Moti Masjid (pearl mosque) from this place which is one of the two mosques built in chaste marble by Emperor Shah Jahan. The second one was built at the Agra fort in 1654 AD.
The opulence of the Mughal era is reflected in the Hathi Paer (elephant stairs) built by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1631-32 AD. It was meant for elephants carrying royalty from and to the palace. It has 58 low and broad steps measuring 216 inches in length and 18 feet and eight inches in width.
You will also see the world’s largest picture wall. The gorgeous wall being elaborated and vivid mosaic decoration in pleasing colours on a plaster base is the main feature of the wall that was commenced by Emperor Jahangir in 1624-25 AD but was accomplished by Shah Jahan in 1631-32 AD. The wall, measuring nearly 450 meters in length and 17 meters in height, is the most representative relic of the Mughal period. It mainly reflects the sports and pastimes of Mughal emperors; nevertheless it exposes a variety of geometrical and floral patterns. The human figures on this presents a clear vision of the various styles of the mosaic are adorned in some hunting, fighting, dancing and mythological scenes.
One visiting the Lahore fort must know about the museums inside it. The Mughal gallery is located in Jahangir’s Quadrangle, which houses historic manuscripts, coins, miniature paintings and some specimens of Persian and Arabic calligraphy, etc. The armory museum showcases the arms and armoury captured by the British during the Sikh battles. It contains items like swords, daggers, arrows, spears, helmets, guns, and pistols. The exciting Sikh gallery is located in the haveli of Rani Jindan. It houses the Princess Bamba collection belonging to Ranjit Singh. Princess Bamba was the granddaughter of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. This gallery carries a rare collection of oil paintings.
The Lahore fort was enlisted among the world’s heritage sites in 1981 by UNESCO.
