Miu Miu, the more arty and eccentric, though frequently equally influential collection designed by Prada, has always mixed trashy elements into its sophisticated, yet subversive, mix. But never so much as in this season.
The look was brash, yet somehow purposeful. Asking women to wear clothes whose inspiration was an acid commentary on our times is a tall order. Yet, Prada succeeded in doing just that with multi-pleated sheath dresses, made in striking hues or dramatic prints, always in viscose, or leather biker jackets with classic motifs. Prada is such an exceptional designer that she can suggest striking cultural references, subvert them with a dismissive attitude and still make a cool collection of clothes.
This has been the least body conscious season in Europe in terms of silhouette in a half decade, and the Miu Miu shape, cut above the knee and loosely draped, was the best representation of the current easy zeitgeist.
It helped that the color palette, fluorescent yellows and neon pinks, was unlike anything seen on any other European catwalk.
This was the final show in the four-week, four-city spring 2011 season, but ultimately the most telling comment on the very celebrity culture that fashion exploits, as much as it mocks while yet embracing it.
