Exploring the Rohtas Fort

Perhaps one of the most colossal and masterful remnants of the Indo-Pak history is the Rohtas Fort, located 16 km northwest of Jehlum, and 8 km from Dina. Never has any building by the Mughals in the subcontinent left so deep an impression, as the haunting ruins of the Rohtas Fort have. The Mughal buildings have been built in the name of aesthetics and beauty: luxurious living.
Their castles, mosques and forts are bastions of an era of relatively more organised rule on the Hindustani land. They depict the leisurely life style of the Mughals, something that could never be snatched away from them during even the worst times of their regime. They were known for their opulence and extravagance and even their forts depicted that.
However, Rohtas Fort is raw, strong, and magnificent. It stands unadorned and businesslike, boasting to ward off the strongest attack. There are hardly any embellishments on its walls, nor any fancy quarters, like those present in the Lahore Fort, for example. Constructed on a jagged hill where the Kahan River meets a stream called Parnal Khas and then turns eastwards to Tilla Jogian Range, the fort towers to about 300 feet above its surroundings.
It is 2,660 feet (818 meters) above the sea level and covers an area of 12.63 acres. The fort was built by one of the greatest warriors and conquerors in the history of the sub-continent, Sher Shah Suri (descendant of Ibrahim Lodhi, and belonging from the Sur Section of the Lodhi tribe in Afghanistan). It was built to block Humayun’s return to India after defeating him in the Battle of Kanauj.
The fort therefore blocked the route from Peshawar to Lahore. Meanwhile, this was also used to suppress the local tribes called Gakhars from the region Potohar. They were allies of Humayun and had refused their allegiance to Suri. The approximately 500 year old fort, due to its location, its massive walls, its trap gates and even its three ‘baolis’ or underground stepped baths it could withstand a major siege. But despite that it was never besieged. The work on this fort started in 1541.
Today the fort is a world heritage site under the UNESCO, but despite several excavation and conservation projects, the fort is in ruins, and many visitors have abused this historic art work, by marking its walls with graffiti. Despite the ruins, the dark outlines of the fort’s walls stand powerful against the overcast sky. The arches are inspired from Kabuli architecture mainly while there are several Hindu architectural influences too. The Rohtas Fort has 12 gates in total; some of them are trap gates such as the Langar Khani Gate, which is directly in the line of fire from the bastions.
The Shishi Gate, the famous entrance from the Kabuli Gate, the Sohail Gate (named after the Saint Sohail Bukhari), Shah Chandwali Gate, Talaqi Gate, Kashmiri Gate, Khwas Khani gate, Gatali Gate, Sar Gate, Pipalwala Gate and Tulla Mori Gate. All the gates of the fort are patterned simply with motifs of sunflowers. This is the main difference in the Mughal architecture of this fort: Sher Shah’s simple structure and designs show its purpose and the nomadic lifestyle of this conquering king. Meanwhile, other decorations used are calligraphies of religious texts, in the Persian-Afghani script, and machicolations – drains where soldiers from inside the fort poured molten lead, which flowed out till it dropped down on the soldiers who tried to scale the walls.
Meanwhile, elements of Hindu architecture include the balconies on the Sohail Gate, the simplicity of the decorations especially on the Shahi Mosque, the complete Hindu architecture of the Haveli of Man Singh and the Rani Haveli. The most noticeable element is the fact that though there are baths there are no living quarters besides the Rani Haveli and the Man Singh Haveli. Ashlars stone is used for the smooth walls, which have blackened over time.
Today these walls, half buried and unexcavated stand broken and weathered. The haunting and melancholic look of these ruins seem to be only visited by the spirits of the 30,000 dead soldiers who used to inhabit this garrison fort. Though UNESCO has claimed it to be a “world heritage site”, continuous neglect has left this ancient building in a state that leaves much to be desired.
To give credit, some parts of the fort have been fixed and rebuilt, such as the Shah Chandwali Gate, whose archway was reconstructed. But in early 2005, seepage and heavy rains caused the left inner face of the Talaqi Gate to collapse, and the right flank and foundation to become detached from the original structure. In some places such as the wall opposite the Shishi Gate, there are even marks left by lightening. The Gatali Gate forms one of the original entrances to Rohtas. Over time, its right bastion and supporting wall have collapsed as a result of permeated rainwater and the erosion of its foundations.
The Rohtas Fort Conservation Programme was conceived by the Himalayan Wildlife Foundation in 2000 to help protect this 16th century Fort and develop it as a heritage site conforming to international standards of conservation and tourism. In conjunction with the Royal Norwegian Embassy, some projects have taken place. These include the complete restoration of Shah Chandwali Gate, conservation of Haveli Man Singh, Talaqi Gate and Gatali Gate, and the establishment of the Sher Shah Suri Museum in the upper storey of the Sohail Gate. To Be Continued…
NEXT: ROHTAS FORT: CAN ARCHEOLOGISTS SAVE THIS SITE?