Gulabi Bagh gateway and Dai Anga’s tomb

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    Opportunity cost of the Orange Line

     

     

    This monument is one of the Protected Heritage Monuments by the Archaeology Department of Punjab under the Archaeological Sites and Monuments in Punjab Province by the Government of Pakistan. Let me mention here for my readers that as per the Antiquities Act 1975, section 22 states that no construction or intervention can be made near an immovable antiquity and that too within a distance of 200 meters. Now the question arises that has the government broken its own rules for its own interests in the shape of the Orange Line? Gulabi Bagh Gateway and Dai Anga’s Tomb are heritage sites, and so are many others on the GT Road, but all rules have been ignored for this new construction, the Orange Line.

    One of the most significant Mughal structures, carrying some of the most stunning tile mosaic examples, is the Gulabi Bagh (Rose Garden) Gateway located on the northern side of GT Road, east of Buddhu’s Tomb, and past Begampura Road on the left. It was the entrance to a garden which, like many other Mughal Era gardens in Lahore, has now disappeared. It was constructed by a Persian Noble Mirza Sultan Baig who was “Amir-al-Bahr” (Admiral of fleet) during the Mughal Era. The name of Gulabi Bagh has been mentioned in the inscription over the arch way, which describes the nature of the garden, and the date of its construction (1066 AH/1655 AD). Inscriptions on the gateway also compare the garden with the beauty of paradise. Just imagine the grandeur of the place in old times. The huge gateway is generously decorated with colourful mosaic tile work, which is awe inspiring. The sharp colours of the grand gateway grab ones attraction while travelling on the GT Road. With the construction of the Orange Line the view will surely be held back, but I guess the archaeology and other government departments do not care much for heritage.

     

    One of the most significant Mughal structures, carrying some of the most stunning tile mosaic examples, is the Gulabi Bagh (Rose Garden) Gateway located on the northern side of GT Road

    A short way inside the surviving gateway is the tomb of Dai Anga. The garden was originally square, with the tomb placed in the centre. The area measured 250 yards on a side, slightly smaller than the tomb-garden of Asif Khan in Shahdra, but larger than those of the great nobles like Ali Mardan Khan and Mahabat Khan which are also located on the Grand Trunk Road. The magnitude of the tomb and the garden signifies Dai Anga’s social distinction and affluence at that time. Her tomb, its dome, and other architectural features show the relics of beautiful blue and yellow glazed tile-work on the exterior, and the most beautiful surviving floral wall paintings in Lahore. Most of these tile works and paintings have faded and vanished now, and nobody is alarmed enough to restore them. The tomb is placed on a raised platform. The mausoleum is dominated by a low-pitched dome placed on a high neck, while its corners are accented through the employment of four square pavilion-like kiosks, carrying projecting chajjas (eaves) and cupolas.

    The tomb of Dai Anga dates to 1671, which suggests that a residential garden was probably converted to the tomb-garden after her death. The exterior of the tomb was originally covered with mosaics, but in the manner of many tombs in Lahore, most of these have been worn or stripped away with the passage of time, aging and especially the negligence of concerned department. The mausoleum comprises a central tomb chamber with eight rooms around it. Internally, it was embellished with fine fresco, remains of which are still visible. Inscriptions of Holy Quran are also seen inside the tomb. There are two graves inside the tomb, one of Dai Anga and the other of her daughter Sultana Begum. Today, the original marble cenotaphs are no longer there and the underground chambers are also inaccessible. The roof top is also closed because the caretaker said it’s too derelict and can fall apart any time. The place is no doubt in shambles and no one is paying any heed towards the dying heritage, rather an expensive project is being carried out right in front of it, the Orange Line. This project has covered the entire beauty of the monument with dust and debris.

    Coming to who Dai Anga was; Zeb-un-Nisa or Dai Anga was the wet nurse of Shah Jahan, and the wife of Mughal magistrate of Bikaner named Murad Khan under Mughal Emperor Jahangir

    Coming to who Dai Anga was; Zeb-un-Nisa or Dai Anga was the wet nurse of Shah Jahan, and the wife of Mughal magistrate of Bikaner named Murad Khan under Mughal Emperor Jahangir. It is the same Dai Anga who built the spectacular mosque named after her, situated in Naulakha area of Central Lahore, which also has a splendid tile mosaic work.

    In my opinion, this Orange Line will not benefit anyone in our city. Rather the money should be spent on the preservation of the heritage. I am not worried about the ongoing diversions and traffic jams, the government needs to review its planning strategies keeping the masses in mind. Schools, universities, free education, poverty alleviation, and employment opportunities, free medical treatments, dispensaries, electricity are more important issues at this hour. Even if the income is spent on the preservation of monuments, tourism can bring in a lot of income and employment. It is just a matter of planning and devising constructive strategies.

    Please re-think.