Amazing Pakistan

How I again fell in love with the country

This November, I visited Pakistan after 10 year’s absence. This lapse was partly due to my heavy working schedule but mainly due to what I saw in the Western TV, Pakistani media and the scary stories told by my Pakistani and foreign friends living in Europe. The constant demonisation of Pakistan made me scared. I was indeed afraid to set foot on the ground of a land I so immensely love and am proud of. The situation became so absurd that every year I made plans to visit Pakistan but at the eleventh hour chickened out.

Finally, I said to myself that in spite of all the problems, millions of other Pakistanis visit their motherland every year, so I should put aside my fears and make a leap of faith. One of the positive influences for this decision was an invitation from my niece who begged me to come to her wedding.

I was told by friends, not to travel by PIA – Pakistan International Airline – because of the bad service, unreliable flying schedule, old planes and expensive prices. I was warned that I should not wear western clothes because it will make me a kidnapping target, do not go out in the street after 10 pm and certainly not to walk around with my expensive camera or use iPhone in public. On top of this, another very sound advice was dished to me by many: that I should not discuss Islam with anyone, even my own family because of blasphemy laws. Since I was very critical of religious monopolists, I may end up in jail if I was reported.

In short, I was told to mingle with crowd, keep my mouth shut and appear poor. In all my world travels from Indonesia to USA, I have never been so warned and alarmed as of this trip to my own motherland.

Against all warnings, I bought a ticket by PIA, which turned out to be a blessing. It was cheaper than other international carriers, the service was great, the plane was a new one and the flights were on time. First prejudice turned out to be false.

In the ensuing three weeks I spent in Pakistan, I visited the capital Islamabad, large cities like Rawalpindi, Lahore and Gujrat as well as numerous middle and small towns. I wore suits, walked on foot, rode on motorbike and cars and other means of transport. No one even looked at me with any envy, concern or suspicion, let alone try to kidnap, harass or intimidate.

As far as speaking openly, I delivered lectures at the prestigious Fatima Jinnah Women University, at Islamabad Rotary Club, was the guest of honour at a think tank in Islamabad, celebrating inter-culturalism, was interviewed at radio stations, by newspapers and had heated discussions at my brother’s home with relatives, guests and even two guys from Pakistan’s FBI. Issues discussed were Islam, the role of religious parties and how Pakistan can move forward. Not once, I was arrested, reported or even labelled as a blasphemous person.

Actually, most people agreed with my criticism of the misuse of Islam and blamed the so-called religious leaders for misleading the innocent public by invoking religion.

There were many other remarkable good changes that I witnessed during my stay. The flourishing of a fantastic amount of small businesses, the abundance of food, the schools, colleges and universities, internet cafes and youngsters striving to educate themselves, especially girls. I especially noticed the improved infrastructures, highways, super expressways, the extensive use of mobiles, very versatile electronic media with 70 channels – broadcasting 24 hours programmes regarding religion, sports, news, political discussions, family problems, music, arts, criticism of government, food, comedies, films and every other topic, you can think of.

But above all, what impressed me most was the hospitality, graciousness, generosity, sincerity and willingness to please, which is the hallmark of Pakistani people. In the parties, at shops, in private get-togethers and at the homes of total strangers, the pleasure people exhibit in inviting and entertaining others to be their guests is indescribable. They do not correct you if you make a mistake, do not accuse you if you do not show good manners and are really apologetic if they feel that you are not eating a full meal.

To someone who has not been to Pakistan, this may sound a very exaggerated tale of patriotism and a view of Pakistani society without any criticism. It may be so but after being witness to 10 years of Pakistan bashing in the west, which has declared Pakistan a failed state, called it a country on the verge of breaking up and where Taliban are running around in streets, my western acquired prejudices were laid to rest, once for all.

Having seen things with my own eyes, experiences I had in the society at close hand and talking to ordinary Pakistanis, I came out with very beautiful and uplifting feelings about this land of the pure. No doubt Pakistan has huge problems, immense difficulties – economic, social, political and institutional – like all other countries in the developing world. I can also write pages upon pages of negative histories – high unemployment, extremism, deadly sectarian violence against minorities, especially Ahmedis, corruption, mismanagement of economy, electricity shortages, deteriorating institutions and what not, but what I want to achieve by writing differently is to inform the world that even though there is so much negative coverage about Pakistan in the mainstream media in the West, there is another side to the coin, which is there but is neglected intentionally.

Pakistan is very strategically placed with neighbours like Iran, Afghanistan, China and India. The landscape of Pakistan ranges from lofty mountains in the north, the Karakoram and the Himalayas, through dissected plateaus to the rich plains of the Punjab. Then follows barrenness of Balochistan and the hot dry deserts of Sindh blending into miles and miles of golden beaches of Makran coast.

Pakistan’s Gross National Product is 500 billion dollars, its population is around 190 million, with 60 percent of the population composed of vibrant youth, very lively political culture, strong democratic institutions and a large NGO sector of various types. It is self-sufficient in food, has world’s 7th largest armed forces with nuclear capabilities and professionalism second to none. The Pakistani expatriates in the world send 30 billion dollars a year back home. Pakistan is not the same as it was few decades ago.

The strong critical lobby against Pakistan should also remember that it is a country which appeared on the world map only 65 years ago. It started with no resources, very little money in the treasury and many odds stacked against it. It survived through the shear willpower of its people who have unshakable faith in its destiny. It is now progressing – slowly but steadily.

To call it a failed state as some western countries and few international institutions gleefully claim, is not only unfair but smells of a calculated political agenda. I would advise such armchair analysts to get out of their comfortable offices in Washington, London and Paris and go visit Pakistan. They would be pleasantly surprised of the development, progress and tenacity of the people of Pakistan. They may not be rich according to western parameters of living standards but they are definitely, very rich in landscape, history, culture, resources, hospitality and are moving on the right path.

The Pakistani leaders should tell the west categorically: If you cannot support Pakistan in its continuous efforts to improve, please stop putting it down and discouraging the Pakistanis. They need friends, not masters.

The writer is Secretary General, European Muslim Initiative for Social Cohesion.