PARIS – At Dries Van Noten, plenty swirled beneath the opaque surface of the designer’s intent, from Bowie glam to aristocratic refinement. But clear understanding could be found in the left lapel of the collection’s jackets.
These were doubled: a white, navy or fur second layer buttoned to the inside of the jacket and folded around on top, duplicating the true left lapel. Graphically, the effect was a contrasting sweep across the chest, almost a sash, reminiscent of military regalia.
According to Van Noten, this sort of construction has its origins in the military uniforms for which lapels were first invented. Often one would be buttoned across the neck for extra warmth, but because that interrupted the shape (particularly a problem if any battle medals happened to be hanging there), a second lapel was needed to cover the chest.
As complicated as all that sounds, the actual impact on the wearer is subtle, a gentle push toward something rich and old world. And that’s the thing Van Noten does so well. He takes a concept or fantasy or imaginary person, fully pushes it and goes there, but without being the slightest bit overt. You don’t have to understand, or even notice, to wear the clothes.
