Of home and away
Travelling through the route, one is swayed to shun the stereotypes surrounding the people of the mountains. People of the mountains, who are tough as the mountains they’re surrounded with, warm as the sheep wool they yarn with
“Yeh rasta do cheezain nai maanta
Neend nai manta aur idhar udhar dekhna nai maanta”
(“This road does accept two things; neither sleep, nor looking around”) – local dhaba owner
Moving away from the city, one enters an entirely different world, where you get to breath the gush of fresh air – something the lungs have longed for – the musical chirping of birds, the distant sound of water bodies colliding against gigantic rocks, the lush green terrace farming spread across the mountains, creaking wooden bridges reluctant to lift the weight of more than one vehicle at a time, rocks painted in white and black to inform the wanderers about the distances covered and the distances yet to be covered.The colossal mountains slowly emerging in the background welcome one to the sublime land of the mountains which promises not only unearthly views but also an experience of divinity that ensures not to leave any man untouched.
Karakoram Highway stretches 1,300km across Pakistan and is used actively for trading purposes between China and Pakistan. The Karakoram Highway cuts through the magnificent snow-caped Karakoram ranges in the north of Pakistan. The road, both dangerous and beautiful, offers various awe-inspiring views and breathtaking experiences to bank on for life. Moving along the Karakoram Highway, the first significant thing one notices – apart from the parallel range of monstrous-looking mountains and a bumpy road – is the landmarks at the road sides to commemorate those who died while building it. Moving closer to the magnificent mountains, one passes small villages with funny names but their inhabitants with the warmest smiles. Advertisements and political slogans painted on the rocks and well-decorated, bright trucks to make the driver feel less homesick add to the beauty and vividness of the route. As cold and tough this route is, one always finds warmth and comfort in people one meets during the journey. The spectacular views and heartwarming welcomes make travelling through the Karakoram Highway an experience unlike anything anyone has witnessed before.
Waterfalls pierce through the mountains to marry the river flowing below, as the sun plays hide and seek with the mountains.The trucks rest on the edge of the road with steep valleys, while their drivers prostrate before their God, requesting him for a safe journey.The shepherds are seen sitting idly atop huge rocks to guard their cattle. The snow lies on the sides of the road, mixed with mud and dirt, alongside the truck hotels at every kilometer promising delectable tea and wise advices. The noisy gushing of the greenish-blue Indus along the road is your continuous companion along the journey. The damaged side barriers bear the testimony of all the horrific accidents this route has endured.
NCP cars with blue number plates rushing to and fro the road, herds of goats and sheep – carpeted in their own fur – blocking the path, drivers communicating with each other through the indicators of their vehicles is a surreal experience.The cable posts being implemented show that technology is slowly growing in this part of Pakistan as well. The huge trucks appear tiny when looked at them from afar, and you learn a lesson about the frailty of your own existence. The cattle climbing the mountains make one marvel at how stable their feet are. The children clad in green or blue uniforms walk through the hilly pathways to their schools.
The overly friendly policemen at every check-post offer you tea; the check posts located amidst the mysterious-looking mountain caves promising to hold many secrets; the mountains that are connected with each other via bridges.
The moon creates a mystic aura when it shines above the mountains during the night, and snow glitters in the sun during the day, as youth play cricket in the mountains. One can spot many future Afridis among them.
The fathers parade their little ones in wheel barrows on their way, which is covered with red of fallen Chinar leaves, and fortified with the widespread Safaida trees. Along the route, one can see numerous sign boards with instructions in Mandarin. The houses along the road make one wonder how the material was taken up there, along the narrow roads and passages with steep valleys, warning the weak-hearted travelers.
The beautiful locals, with eyes full of awe, smiling and waving at the travelers to welcome them to their land in Balti and Kohistani is a heartwarming sight. Women are a rare sight in the Karakoram region. Chinese workers sporting their yellow work helmets are seen abundance, embodying the presence of CPEC.
Travelling through the route, one is swayed to shun the stereotypes surrounding the people of the mountains. People of the mountains, who are tough as the mountains they’re surrounded with, warm as the sheep wool they yarn with. They will not allow you to feel lost, unsafe and unwelcomed – even if it’s a girl travelling alone. There’s a fair chance one might not mind the stares directed towards them when in the mountains. These stares are not harassing; they’re filled with pure awe and interest. One is compelled to even smile back and wave at them and see them shy away. The people of mountains are beautiful and full of life.
Coming back from the mountains, the heart is heavy. One already starts to feel nostalgic. The simplicity, the freshness in air, the purity in intentions, the warmth in greetings, the shyness in smiles, the authenticity, the hospitality; one suddenly starts to miss the mountains slowly fading away. It feels like one is leaving behind one’s home to go to a place entirely stranger.
