From a home grown business to the runway; fashion debutant Shiza Hassan turned heads at the just concluded PFDC L`Oreal Paris Bridal fashion Week, in Lahore. While expectations of the bridal fashion week, may have been dampened due to the notable absence of top designers, there is nothing like a new designer adding her own spin on the runway.
Shiza Hassan is a prêt-a porter and haute couture label born out of Lahore in 2014. She studied at LUMS, graduated with a diploma in interior design from the National College of Arts. Shiza has always had a way of confounding expectations by being willing to explore new ideas. She is renowned for her signature prints and her love for the contemporary and the opulent as her signature strength. With a love for fashion; Shiza Hassan’s work is driven by intensive detailing, a penchant for perfection in workmanship. She believes in spreading her wings and shares a robust vision in enhancing the label’s reputation and recognition.
“I have always embraced a love for the craft, I feel one needs to experiment and think out of the box and then focus on that,” Shiza Hassan said.
“I have always wanted to stay connected to the roots and I feel that everything has a deep connection with ancestry. I want to stay close to it no matter how much we want to add up or become contemporary but the craft angle, depth and history has to be taken into account. My personal vision has always been to revive and reinterpret and this showcase serves as the perfect stage to celebrate this given opportunity,” said a very soft-spoken, thoughtful, one who attribute to design aesthetics and influence of heritage as a style mantra.
But here, dressed in black overalls, she’s anything but pretentious.
Shiza Hassan trumps in the ‘design aesthetics, craftsmanship and focuses on using traditional arts and crafts worked into contemporary fashion forms such as ‘zardozi,’ ‘kaamdani,’ ‘dabka,’ ‘nakshi’ and visible embellishments like dangling chains, uncut stones, metallic leaves, pearls detailing, tassels, crystal braids and fringes for an added drama. Her latest collection features minimalist elegance without being too blingy with each design combines a signature love for understated glam, the interplay of colour and embellishment.
-About the collection-
Her collection of craft led pieces about the influence and spirit of Persian ‘shikargah’, each of which is manifested in a tribute to this woven wonderment of over two thousand year old craft when Carpet making reached its epitome as an artform in Iran during the ‘Safavid’ era; ‘Aroos-e- Abrashami’ in Persian or ‘The Silken bride’ is a reinterpretation of the focus on the revival of the traditional craft elements.
The collection was concise and looked luxurious on the runway barring few pieces each one had the element of practicality with a definite oomph. There’s an abundant use of motifs with hunting scenes, the tree of life with vine interlacement, vases, arches, medallions and architectural motifs all having the context to the present and past of different tribes and craft centres alike from that time.
“This collection represents my desire to evolve and step out from the comfort zone. My collection is as much contemporary as it is on the historical perspective. I have experimented with the placement of prints and patterns and worked with clean cuts and fused traditional oriental details to create pieces that are ageless,” said Hassan about her collection.
The silhouettes follow contemporary structure with a variety of cuts from jackets, flap shirts, bustiers, flowy drapes, ‘shararas’ and, ‘lehngas’ channelling eastern vibes yet retaining modern elegance.
One of our favourites was the designs that had a gold thread snake whizzing past the shirt. The designer made a clever use of traditional arts and crafts worked into contemporary fashion forms with bold and visible embellishments.
The ‘angrakha’ cut full dress with bejewelled waist had a contemporary appeal. We see this one’s becoming the top pick of the modern bride. Fluid cuts with rich fabrics, offset by finishes and a vibrant colour palette mark the arrival of the brand. Perhaps the most striking creative piece was the long jacket worn by Cybil Choudry at the start of the show. As a fashion concept, it was a stunning teaser that set the mood for the rest of the collection. It allows the wearer to freely strut on the runway and can be worn on its own or teamed with wide legged ajars fully applicable for festive settings.
Most of her 16 pieces were based on diversity in fabrics from pure raw silks to tissue, Chantilly, organza’s and nets added with 3d embellishments-a dash of hot pink, charcoal grey, ferozi and pop of red coral. We found the designer posing after the show with her brother; ace tennis star Aisam-ul Haq Qureishi who was the showstopper along with the very gorgeous, Anoosha.
This year, the PFDC introduced an entire day dedicated to fashion designers to make their solo show bridal debuts on Day-2. Generally, one witnesses a hefty line up of reputed designers at the fashion week but a stronger debut showcase of Mahgul followed by Shiza Hassan, Farah & Fatima, Saira Rizwan and Shamsha Hashwani got everyone in a mood to check out what the rising stars have in store for us. So much so, that PFDC Chairperson Sehyr Saigol is seriously contemplating making this as a permanent feature.
“This year is aimed to promote aspiring designers and give them the platform from where they can take their brand forward. This also makes them step out of their comfort zones and explore much greater opportunities,” she said while talking to Pakistan Today.
Since, her collection came in focus, at PFDC L’Oreal Bridal Fashion Week; Shiza Hassan has found a niche following inundated with orders on her latest creations. She has definitely courted a wider audience by showing her collection in Lahore and is ready to receive criticism as well.
“I want to produce new ideas and create my identity in the sphere,” she added.
Shiza explains that her pieces are meant for multipurpose usage and can be worn as separates.
“I believe fashion must tell a tale. I want my signature brand to be treasured by all and worn with pride,” the designer added.
