The palace of colours
If you are looking for significant and superb examples of Sikh architecture in Lahore, Punjab, one would definitely not overlook the Haveli of Nau Nehal Singh. This spectacular Haveli was the private home of the Prince Nau Nehal Singh
The ringing bells, hustle and bustle of life, vivid colours of fresco work, decorative motifs, jewel like hanging balconies and a grand carved wooden door will not let you pass by this place. Here is the most colorful eye catching and stunning Haveli you can ever think of, the Haveli of Prince Nau Nehal Singh, now known as Victoria School located at a junction of Mori and Bhatti Gate inside Old Lahore.
The word “Haveli” is used for a mansion in India and Pakistan. The word is derived from the Persian word “hawli”, meaning “an enclosed place”. Havelis typically were built by wealthy aristocrats to house themselves and their extended families, and were often constructed several stories high with one or more courtyards in the interior.
If you are looking for significant and superb examples of Sikh architecture in Lahore, Punjab, one would definitely not overlook the Haveli of Nau Nehal Singh. This spectacular Haveli was the private home of the Prince Nau Nehal Singh. The structure is well intact maybe because it remained in use. It is in far better condition than the rest of the Havelis in Old Lahore; many have been converted into commercial use. The Haveli was taken over by the British government when Punjab was annexed in 1849 and converted into the first public school for girls, The Victoria School. The school has been used in many Pakistani films and dramas because of its exquisiteness and splendor.
Prince Nau Nihal Singh was the son of Maharaja Kharak Singh. The Haveli of Kharak Singh is still seen inside Lahore Fort, which is being used as an archive room by the archeology department of Punjab. After the death of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, Kharak Singh became the king but was unable to keep control of a huge kingdom due to which Prince Nau Nihal took control of the state himself.
Upon Kharak Singh’s death, Nau Nihal Singh was in line to become emperor. However, on returning from his father’s cremation while he was passing through Roshnai Darwaza some bricks and stones fell on his head, which resulted in the death of his companions and injuring the prince. Finally the prince died of the injuries at the age of 19 and historians are still uncertain if the death was accidental or deliberated.
Today, this pompous Haveli is perhaps the finest of the surviving Havelis in Lahore. With a startling rectangular floor plan the building has a basement and four storyes above the ground level. The main entrance of the Haveli is from the street bounded by an open space named as “Bhaiyon ka Medaan”. If you are there, you will see a typical Androon Lahore life in the open space.
It is said that the Bhaiyon ka Medaan was once a small garden inside the Haveli and the buildings encircling the place were a part of the Haveli. With the passage of time, division of land and reconstructions only half of the Haveli is intact today. The haveli has numerous spacious chambers, halls and balconies. The roofs are decorated with paintings, mirrors and traces of gold are still seen. It is a jewel of artistic achievement. The wooden roof is richly decorated, divided into several geometrical compartments. The walls are richly ornamented with glass work and flower paintings and fresco. It is one of its kinds with brick work, fresco, jharokas and balconies. Beside the miniature paintings, there are several other kinds of decorative works such as cut brick work, woodwork including carvings and engravings, painted floral motifs and stucco work. The cut brick work, however, is of the finest kind. It seems that Sikh craftsmen especially excelled in this kind of masonry. The carving of the bricks is so sharp, precise and accurate that bricks seem to be made of wax rather than of baked clay. The façade is decorated with colourful floral designs in fresco along with carved jharokas which have animal and human figures on the pedestal of each. The pedestal of two side jharokas are brilliantly decorated with flower petal deigns. These pedestals are a unique feature of this Haveli and add to the beauty of the structure. So far the colours of the designs have not faded and some minor repairs and touch ups have also been done. You will find a huge variety of floral patterns in this Haveli. The back side façade of the Haveli is richly decorated with stucco carving. The building also has fountains which are not functional now. These can be restored if the authority looking after the building desires. There is also a Sheesh Mahal inside this Haveli. The possession of this building is with the Education Department of Government of Punjab.
Today, this pompous Haveli is perhaps the finest of the surviving Havelis in Lahore. With a startling rectangular floor plan the building has a basement and four storyes above the ground level
Many films and drama serials have been shot in this Haveli. It is a functional school at present but not a tourist site. Due to security measures at schools these days access inside the building is difficult for any tourist. In my opinion, on Sundays and other off days this place should be opened for the public as well with a nominal ticket.