Pindi 101

An introduction to the city of Rawalpindi

Lovingly referred to as Pindi, Rawalpindi is the fourth most populous city of Pakistan. Inhabited for hundreds of years, it has a long history. The city’s roads, modes of transport and general infrastructure are a living testimony to this ancientness. On the other hand, if Metro buses are any indication of the progress of a city as some say they are, Pindi is the joint-second most developed city in Pakistan. This coming together of the old and the new is one of the hallmarks of Pindi.

Pindi is one half of the twin cities of Rawalpindi-Islamabad; but while Islamabad is federal territory, Pindi is a part of the Punjab. The distinction between Pindi and Islamabad is becoming vaguer and vaguer by the day. DHA used to be Pindi once, but then it became Islamabad. Bahria Town followed suit though politically speaking it still belongs in a Pindi constituency. Gulrez was still positively in Pindi till the filing of the last report. In many cases, though nobody knows which side of the divide a locality actually is, one has a choice to choose Pindi or Islamabad as one’s address line, a choice where very few choose Pindi. The expanding Islamabad has all but surrounded Pindi, except on the side of Dhamial/Adiala. If Islamabad claims this region as well, Pindi will be completely cut off from the Punjab.

Talking of Adiala, the jail bearing the name is not where Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto was hanged. He was hanged in the original Rawalpindi Jail, which was demolished afterwards lest it became a shrine. Now there is a McDonald’s there. Of course Bhutto Sr. was not the only PM killed in Pindi. The first prime minster, Liaquat Ali Khan, was assassinated at the Company Bagh in 1951. The municipal park was then renamed the Liaquat Bagh. More than half a century later, Benazir Bhutto was also assassinated in front of the same park. A major government hospital, a main road, and the capital’s international airport were then renamed after her.

Rawalpindi has had historical significance in other matters as well. Under the British rule it was a major garrison city; of course today it serves as the GHQ of Pakistan. The ‘mutineers’ of the 1857 war were killed by cannon fire in what is now the zila kachery (district courts), an important landmark even today. Not very far from which, there stood the now demolished Freemason’s Hall, two front pillars of which are still standing.

Of course, the famous GT Road passes through Pindi, where it is called the Jehlum Road, the Mall Road, and the Peshawar Road depending on the specific location. For some mysterious reason, Pindi is the only major city on the GT Road still without a bypass, despite many announcements to the effect. Some people believe that construction of the bypass will be started the day Chakri is included in the route.

You will find more Suzuki FXs per capita in Pindi than anywhere else, most of them being used as taxis, almost all bearing the mysterious initials RAK at the back. There are at least three theories explaining the rationale behind the acronym – all three equally moronic, and hence all equally likely to be true. Many Pindi drivers cautiously lean forward while driving, as if to say that one can’t be too careful behind the wheels. One often wishes they weren’t this careful though.

Of the four most famous sons of Pindi, two unfortunately chose to leave Pakistan. Shankardas Kesarilal and Bakhshi Anand Prakash Vaid (both now deceased) decided to try their luck in cinema. Changing their names to suit the dazzling world of Bollywood, Shailendra and Anand Bakshi went on to become arguably the two greatest lyricists of all time. The other two, Sheikh Rasheed and Chaudhry Nisar, are very much alive and are continuing to make Pakistan the envy of other nations.

No account of Pindi is complete without a mention of Pindi boys. There are two types of Pindi boys. The first type is regularly made fun of on the social media, oft-times unfairly, owing to the flamboyant lifestyle statements on the part of its members. As for the second type of Pindi boys, nobody dares making fun of them on internet or elsewhere.

The Islamabad International Airport, which is actually in Pindi, was temporarily ‘borrowed’ by the civilian authorities from the Air Force upon shifting of the capital to Islamabad. Nothing is as permanent as the ad-hoc, they say. So it is that it has still not been returned.

When it comes to the weather, Pindi is extremely hot in summers, very cold in winters, and temperate during spring and fall. There are heavy rains during the monsoon; there is the customary flooding of the Naala Lai every year, owing to all the unauthorized sewer and garbage disposal into the naala.

Pindi is also famous for Grato Jalebi, Savour Food and the 111 brigade.