The character of Moraan plays hide and seek if we closely observe it in the Sikh History and her role in Lahore. She was known to be the beloved of Sher-e-Punjab Maharaja Ranjeet Singh and later became his wife. In his entire regime, Maharaja Ranjeet Singh did not mint a coin of his name; instead, the coin of Moraan was the currency of that time. The court decisions were not made in the Palace of Ranjeet Singh, but in the drawing room of Moraan. Soon she got popular as Moraan Sarkar and became a window to the common people who often brought their problems to her. She was considered to be very cultured in arts and especially writing. She was known for her philanthropic acts and in bringing Maharaja’s attention to many problems which he would overlook otherwise. This is the importance of the Moraan in the Sikh History and that of Lahore.
You must be thinking who actually was Moraan? She made her way into the heart of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh when he was only 21 because she was unlike any woman he had known before her. She accompanied him when he went for riding and other activities of the empire. The love for Moraan spell bounded Sher-e-Punjab and he married her against the will and wishes of the entire Sikh population and despite the conditions that were put down by Moraan’s father and the head of her community Mian Samdu.
In real life she was a dancer who performed in the court of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh, a young dancer known as twaif at that time. Through his marriage to Moraan, the Maharaja wanted to support the community of tawaifs who were socially unacceptable.
After their marriage in 1802, Moraan and the Maharaja went for a dip in the Ganga, that is a ritual to be free of sins by taking a bath in the pious waters. The marriage raised the anger of the entire Khalsa Panth (the community of baptized Sikhs) and Ranjit Singh was called to the Akal Takht for retribution. He was proclaimed guilty and condemned to public flogging. He bowed before the Akal Takht and accepted the punishment. Maharaja was tied to slings by Akali Phula Singh for marrying with Moraan. This also could not lessen the love for Moraan and the story kept going on.
Maharaja Ranjit Singh used to meet her in the Punjab region of today’s India and Pakistan. She used to dance for him at the Baradari of Maharaja Ranjit Singh halfway between Amritsar and Lahore. The place was since called Pul Kanjri but now its name has been changed to ‘Pul Moraan’.
The Maharaja at Moraan’s request, built a mosque called as Masjid-e-Tawaifan in 1824, which was again renamed in 1998 as Mai Moraan Masjid in Lahore. This is the Mosque located inside the Walled City of Lahore inside the Shah Almi Gate near Pappar Mandi. The red colored Mosque was once the symbol of passion and love of Moraan Tawaif for the religion of Islam and it showed the standards of religious harmony but the pages of history have been rewritten by changing the name of the Mosque.
The Mosque is built on a raised platform and one has to climb a few steps to enter inside the Mosque. The structure of the Mosque has been changed over the period of time, just like its name, and now it does not reflect the original fabric. There are rooms inside the Mosque for the residences of the Mullah and Moazan of the Mosque. On one side there is a water tank for the ablution. The placement of this tank has not been changed so far and it is located where it was built. The Mosque is a three dome Mosque like many others built in the same era. Maulana Ghulaam Rasool was deputed as the first Moazan of the Mosque by Maharaja Ranjeet Singh. This Mosque and the religious school ( madrassa) associated with it gained popularity in those times and people from far flung areas would come there to attend classes and for research on religion. The Mosque was known for the Islamic education, calligraphy and diversified religious studies. No doubt, that it attracted foreigners and locals of the sub continent in those times. Later when the British took over the Punjab, like many other Mosques this Mosque was also damaged. Unfortunately the school was closed down during the British era but the Mosque is still intact. This is a still a living mosque and opened for the prayers. At present the Mosque is hidden behind many perfume shops and one has to look for it amidst them. The photography of the Mosque is not allowed and I had to make my way in with great difficulty.
I think this Mosque has a unique and interesting history; this should be disseminated to the public at large. There should be history plaques on the Mosque stating the History of the Mosque and got it built, the Moraan Twaif. It is not a tourist spot although it has a great potential. I hope it is saved and no more changes are made to change its name and structure.
(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com)