Buddhu ka Awa (tomb of Buddhu) is a reflection of how the Government is concerned about preserving historical landmarks. The new construction of the Orange Line is another indication that how important Protected Monuments are to the Government. This monument I am writing about is one of the Protected Heritage Monuments by the Archeology Department of Punjab under the Archaeological sites and Monuments in Punjab Province by the Government of Pakistan. Let me mention here for my readers that as per the Antiquities Act 1975, the section 22 states that no construction or intervention can be made near an immovable antiquity. What is the reason behind the construction of Orange Line that the Government is forced to break its own rules? Buddhu Ka Awa is a heritage site, and so are many others on the GT Road, but all rules have been ignored for this new construction.
Located on Grand Trunk Road across the street from the U.E.T. in Lahore, Pakistan is the Buddhu ka Awa, a dilapidated monument with a fascinating history. Like me, most of you might not be familiar with Buddhu. I got to know about this place during a photo walk, and was amazed by the history but at the same time disheartened by the maintenance of the monument.
Let me come to Buddhu first and then I will paint you a picture of his tomb in shambles. We usually have two or more versions of the historical events and monuments and so is the case with Buddhu ka Awa. The monument is the tomb of Bhai Buddhu, a brick potter who supplied masonry for Mughal monuments during Shah Jahan’s era when Mughals built their most majestic mosques and mausoleums.
Sikh history states that Bhai Buddhu had refused to feed a starving Sikh devotee, Bhai Kamliya, who was travelling through the area. In return, Bhai Kamliya cursed him which resulted in the downfall of Bhai Buddhu’s brick pottery business. To overcome the curse, Bhai Buddhu requested Guru Arjan Dev to pardon him. Guru Arjan Dev blessed him with success in his business. Thereafter, Bhai Buddhu’s business began to flourish. As a token of his gratitude to Guru Arjan Dev for his blessing, Buddhu built a huge Gurudwara in place of his brick kiln. With the passage of time, the building of Gurudwara collapsed but tomb of Buddhu remained there which is now with the Archaeological Department as a protected monument. According to a another tradition, Bhai Buddhu was cursed by Abdul Haq, who was a disciple of a Muslim Sufi holy man, Hazrat Mian Mir. On a stormy night Abdul Haq was passing through and sought shelter but Bhai Buddhu refused. There the disciple casted a curse and the business collapsed.
Other than these stories, the monument has witnessed many historical events marred by religious conflicts. At one point, it was the official residence of General Paolo, an Italian veteran of the Napoleonic wars, and Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s military commander. Later, it became a military camp when Maharaja Sher Singh and Raja Hira Singh sealed Lahore during a turbulent period in Sikh history.
There is also a controversy on the monument that is evident from the board placed on it by the Archeology department. Given that Sikhs consider it a part of a Gurudwara and the Muslims claim it as a Muslim tomb, Government officials don’t know if it lays within the jurisdiction of the Archaeology department or the Waqf Board (a Government body which is responsible for maintenance of minority places of worship) but somehow, the possession is with the Archeology Department.
Ending the history here and coming to the present, the interior of the building is closed because of its perilous state and it is made a store for the gardening staff. Situated in the middle of a rumpled small garden behind an iron gate, Buddhu ka Awa has lost its facade and is now a wrecked piece of architecture. The Tomb and the leftovers of the monument is undoubtedly a captivating structure with glimpses of its bygone beauty. The monument is a square building constructed on a brick platform with a long neck dome, built on an octagonal drum, similar to other monuments of its time. The dome appears to have been covered with glazed sky-blue and yellow tiles with floral designs, the remains of which are still visible today. As per the historic accounts it is said that the arches on each side of the building were decorated with paintings and it stood in the middle of a large garden which has met an unfortunate fate like many other Mughal Gardens. Inside the structure we see two graves, and this endorses the controversies, none of the people on site knew about the graves but one is surely of Bhai Buddhu.
Sadly, it is breathing its last and there is no conservation or restoration of the monument. You will be greeted by strong odor of the trash and garbage lying around inside the place. At night it is also used as a public toilet by the addicts of the nearby area, as they can easily climb the small heighted gate and fence. These days if you visit the site, you will also be covered by a thick dust layer because of the orange line track being laid next to it. This construction is an obstacle in the view of the Monument and if this Orange Line is laid, the monument will be gone forever. I am afraid that if this practice of building bridges and lanes just next to heritage sites continues, we will soon lose everything we have.