Visit to India – II

A Shining India and a not so Shining India

Since my last article, a reportedly cordial and constructive bilateral meeting of Pakistan and India national security advisors and foreign secretaries was held in Bangkok. Subsequently, the Indian Foreign Minister Sushma Swaraj flew to attend the Heart of Asia Conference in Islamabad on 8 December.

Just over a year after Narendra Modi took over as prime minister and in mid-term of Nawaz Sharif, the ice between the two nations has exhibited some signs of melting. Should the hostilities between the two nations cease or at least dilute and the comprehensive dialogue promised by the two foreign ministers is not derailed yet again by some incident, both nations will be winners. Modi may emerge as a statesman repairing his tarnished image of an extremist and prop his fledging popularity back home. Likewise, Nawaz Sharif’s withering foreign policy may get a boost.

Many intellectuals I met appeared to have developed an uncanny feeling that Modi had already reached the zenith of his goodwill and the next four years may be more difficult and downhill for him. His majority in the parliament is being eroded with the loss in state elections and the opposition’s grand alliance has been flexing its muscles against his reforms agenda. His unrealistic promises of change by achieving higher growth, bringing back the money held in foreign banks by Indian nationals, creating jobs, eradicating corruption, caste system and communalism, poverty alleviation and raising the standard of living of a common man were loved by the people during the general election. Now that the delivery on the agenda remains largely unfulfilled and appears far-fetched, his popularity is also waning.

BJP has been unable to introduce legislation that has been blocked by the upper house, controlled by the opposition parties. He has been visiting the world capitals to attract foreign investments and has feverishly signed countless MoUs. Most Indian economists opine that no more than 25 percent of those are likely to go beyond the paperwork, as bureaucracy is antiquated and ill-equipped to manage inflow of large investments. All these factors and the pressure of Western powers including the Russians and Chinese, deeply concerned with terrorism originating from regional hostilities and overflowing into their countries, may have contributed to the sudden love of Modi for improving ties with us.

The obstacles in good governance are not much different in our country. Our scale is much lower and problems fewer and less complex, due to which we have a distinct possibility of overcoming them, provided we can muster the will. Our democratic system has been a victim of the game of musical chairs. Our bureaucracy has become accustomed to reaping dividends by collaborating with politicians thus sabotaging the very system they are under oath to protect – this must be corrected. While the two nations have similarities, there are glaring inherent fundamental contrasts.

As one crosses the border at Wagah, those contrasts became instantly noticeable. The Indian custom staff appeared alert and vigilant. Their porters that belonged to the lower casts appeared humble, submissive and under-nourished and probably had done this work forever. The staff on our side lacked focus on the work in hand. Our porters looked robust, proud and demanding and disinterested in the job, perhaps thinking of their next move. The work ethics appeared different.

The major Indian cities are crowded and mismanaged, constantly endeavouring to cope with the problem of transporting the ever increasing population. Two cities we visited were dug up building flyovers for trains and jangla bus routes. People accepted the inconvenience due to the infrastructure development projects without any resentment and spoke of the comforts of the end result. Their attitude to progress and hope for a better tomorrow indicated positivity.

People in Amritsar, who had visited Lahore, envied our roads, cleanliness and the constant improvement in the infrastructure (that we underestimate). The highlight of Amritsar is the Golden Temple, a marvellous site to behold, that went through a major overhaul after the damage caused by the Indian army assault (Operation Blue Star) ordered by Prime Minister Indira Gandhi in 1984. Other than its vastness, this gigantic complex can be singled out for its immaculate maintenance and its spotless cleanliness. Scores of volunteers help keep the shrine shining. Devotees line up patiently and silently for hours to enter the shrine without any sign of frustration.

New Delhi is a metropolis of contrasts. The city has wide boulevards and grand state buildings built by the British towards the end of their reign to give it the look of a capital city. As one exits from these nice and clean tree lined areas, not much different to our Lahore, one is confronted with over-populated and poorly designed colonies littered with accumulated rubbish. The traffic everywhere is chaotic and moving at snail’s pace. Despite converting all buses to CNG, the atmosphere is clouded with extreme pollution.

The middle class is expanding in India with emphasis on promoting work culture. Everyone is seeking employment regardless of gender. Aimless loitering is rare. Women empowerment is most visible as uninhibited young women are seen queuing for transport or riding motor scooters to go to work, alongside men. In cities, practical western attire has replaced the traditional. The rat race has taken its toll as people displayed harrowing looks and in a mad rush. The cases of rape in India are highest in the world. Cases of death by consumption of cheap adulterated local booze are frequently reported in the press.

Civil aviation sector and railways have grown manifold in India. So has local manufacture of motorcars of all international brands. Due to fierce competition in quality and affordable price among a number of new private airlines such as Jet, Indigo, Spice Jet, Jetlite, air travel is no more the monopoly of the rich. It can be said that the domestic airlines of India have made air travel accessible for the masses and lucrative for the aviation industry. Security measures even for domestic flights were extremely tight that spared no one and checked each passenger with utmost diligence. Prevention of terrorism is taken seriously. We can learn a few things from India by cooperating instead of competing which is unrealistic in view of its sheer size and tremendous economic growth.

As one moves from the affluent areas lined with glamorous hotels, shopping centres and huge malls, abject poverty dwelling in makeshift shelters manifests itself belying the claim of Shining India. The progress has bypassed the majority of its population who still live with the amenities of the nineteenth century — many without electricity or running water and probably go to sleep on an empty stomach. A minority, on the other hand, is bursting through the seams.

The level of poverty and the oppression of the poor in India are rarely highlighted in our press. I believe that India’s social problems are insurmountable due to its growing population. The marked difference between us and them is that the Indians would always defend their country while we never shy from degrading ourselves in front of others. Some of us find very little in praise of their country when visiting India and exaggerate our misfortunes. Each of our citizens has self-pride and no one goes hungry in our country. I firmly believe these are the reasons we are saved from a bloody revolution. We should learn to thank God for his mercies and be proud in what he has bestowed upon us.