Lessons for back home
Though I was awake since the previous night because of my travelling, still the enchanting beauty, heritage, roadside life and landscape kept me fresh while driving to Kandy in Sri Lanka. The botanical gardens, beautiful tall trees of Coconut, Papaya, and Pineapple were standing along the roads like royal guards. Beautifully coloured small religious temples added colour to the scene. As I was going further up country weather was changing pleasantly. Finally I reached the hill top along the river with a nice view and that was the hotel in Kandy where I had to stay. I was welcomed wholeheartedly by the hotel staff.
The World Heritage Site, Kandy, was the last capital of the Sri Lankan Kingdom before the country was brought under British rule in 1815. Kandy was eminent for its rich heritage and grandeur; this marvellous city was last ruled by Sri Wickrama Rajasinha.
Dominating the place is Kandy Lake. An ideal place to spend a few hours in peace! The nicest part to walk along is the area around the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic or Sri Dalada Maligawa. Due to some past harassment cases, women are asked not to walk there alone after sunset, said my guide who was accompanying me from the airport. The lake was artificially created in 1807 by Sri Wickrama Rajasinha, the last ruler of the kingdom of Kandy. Several minor local chiefs protested because their people objected to labouring on the project. In order to stop the protests they were put to death in the lake bed. The central island was used as Sri Wickrama Rajasinha’s personal harem. Later the British used it as an ammunition store and added the fortress-style parapet around the perimeter. I think British made changes in the land use where ever they went as same as they did in Lahore and many other cities of the subcontinent.
Dominating the place is Kandy Lake. An ideal place to spend a few hours in peace! The nicest part to walk along is the area around the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic or Sri Dalada Maligawa
Just north of the lake, the golden-roofed Temple of the Sacred Tooth houses Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist relic – a tooth of the Buddha. The visit to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic was a marvellous experience, the centuries-old Temple was standing like as it was build yesterday. I think it must be one of the best conserved pieces in the world. Another reason for its sustainability is its continuous use. This is the supreme way of preserving any heritage site, make it a tourist place. Thousands of visitors throng the place daily, according to the locals; this is why the place is well kept and maintained.
The temple upholds relics of what is said to be the real teeth of the Buddha. After Buddha was cremated, his canine teeth were preserved from the ashes. These teeth are respected as the holiest relics of Buddhism. The enchanting beauty of the temple was mesmerising and the kind of architecture of the building had was amazing.
The entire temple complex covers a large area and as well as the main shrine; there are numerous other temples and museums within the complex. Shrines of Buddha made of marble, beautiful painted murals depicting the history of Buddhism — statues and paintings. The temple is active with monks in residence. Since ancient times, the relic has played an imperative role in local politics because it is believed that whoever holds the relic holds the governance of the country. Rituals are performed three times daily: at dawn, noon and in the evenings. On Wednesdays there is a symbolic bathing of the relic with herbal scented water with flowers called Nanumura Mangallaya. This holy water is believed to contain healing powers and is distributed among those present at that time. Many people, in order to have the holy water, wait in long queues there. One has to wear clothes that cover ones legs and shoulders, and shoes are not allowed inside. There is a queue to see the tooth urn and you are not allowed to stop and take photos. Sometimes the doors to the urn area are closed without warning. During puja (prayers), the heavily guarded room housing the tooth is open to devotees and tourists. One cannot actually see the tooth as it is kept in a gold casket shaped like a stupa.
This is a very esteemed and treasured temple for the Buddhist. It is fascinating to see the faith of the people and the serenity on their faces while praying even among huge crowds of people. The crowd control is not good so be prepared to get pushed around a bit. Find out the time when the room with the shrine is open so that you do not miss it. I was lucky because right after I passed the window where you can offer flowers, the shutters were closed. It is interesting to see large group of mothers with infants and babies standing and waiting to be blessed.
The temple sustained damage from bombings by the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam in 1998 but was fully restored each time. I was envying this part the most, as I compared the situation with my country. We hardly restore or preserve anything that is damaged; the walled cities inside Pakistan are a living example.
I felt sad for a while thinking about the conditions of tourism in my country. We could not earn a penny out of our rich heritage
Just behind the main temple, but still inside the complex, is the World Buddhism Museum which is housed inside the former High Court buildings. The museum contains lots of photographs, models and displays illustrating Buddhism around the world. A large number of the statues and other exhibits placed there are imitations of the originals.
The best part is that the freelance guides will offer their services around the entire temple complex for around Rs500, and free audio guides are available at the ticket office. The guides are extremely mannered and civilised. They do not bother a tourist much, as in Pakistan, and politely extend their services to any tourist. The good thing which is a must for the heritage site is the provision of an elevator for the senior and disabled traveller, which is available there.
I felt sad for a while thinking about the conditions of tourism in my country. We could not earn a penny out of our rich heritage. It is not about minting money, it is about valuing the heritage and attracting the world to what we have. We have Katas Raaj, Rohtaas and many more places which are unattended. Our authorities should create art galleries, museums, guided tours, trips and much more in order to sustain these heritage sites. The dilemma is that the closure of heritage sites adds to their deterioration. Make them a living place and they will become self sustainable.
