The Golden Mosque of Lahore

National heritage left to decay

In the hustle and bustle of the dazzling Kashmiri Bazaar one cannot ignore the majestic, glittering monument the Sunehri Masjid or the Golden Mosque standing on the masonry platform, about one storey above street level. It is a small mosque but a remarkably handsome building, and combines perfect symmetry of form.

The mosque has three gilded domes (golden domes) which are the key features and main focus point. They also make it unique inside the Walled City of Lahore. Due to its gilded domes this mosque is named Sunehri or Golden Mosque. The inner prayer hall is decorated with pulsating fresco work and floral designs. On the north and south of the mosque, small white dome-lets are seen, which give a fine-looking border to the site. Four tall minarets add to the exquisiteness of this mosque.

At present, the area near the mosque is the busiest inside the Walled City of Lahore. The Waan Market (known for handmade twisted twine furniture) is located outside the mosque. The bazaar is extremely colourful and gives one the typical feel of the vibrant Walled City. The mosque is also part of the Royal Trail that starts from Delhi Gate. Temporary stalls are also located outside the mosque. Dahi Bhalay and Laddo Pithi Walay (local foodstuff) of this area are considered among famous eateries.

The mosque was built in 1749-53 AD by Nawab Mir Syed Bhakri Khan, the Naib Subedar of Lahore at the time when Mir Moin-ul-Mulk was the Subedar during the reign of the Emperor Mohammad Shah. Syed Bhakri was a simple Sufi and religious minded person interested in literature and fine arts. The mosque was built amid much controversy. The locals of the area resisted the construction of mosque in a central crossing place of Rang Mahal and Kashmiri Bazaar, thinking it would hinder the locals and traffic movement. According to various historic accounts, another controversy over the construction of the mosque was an already existing mosque nearby. The mosque was built after a “Fatwa” from Islamic scholars of the area, who declared that all land belongs to Allah and there is no harm if a mosque is constructed near another one.

During the Sikh rule, the mosque was used for different activities. The floor was plastered with different filthy materials which were against the sanctity of the mosque. Later, the Sikh Holy Book was also placed inside the mosque and it was turned into their worship place. The Muslims at that time were offended and dejected over the misuse. The Mohammedans in Lahore during the same period requested the influential Muslim families the Faqirs, Aziz Uddin and Noor Uddin, to approach the Maharaja for restoring the mosque and handing it back to the Muslims. After many negotiations the mosque was handed over to the Muslims but the shops outside remained an issue. The Sikhs demanded that the call for prayers or “Azan” should not be made loudly. The Muslims, to save the sanctity of the mosque, agreed to it. When the British took over Punjab, they handed over the shops to the Muslims and restored the mosque again.

It was restored by USAID in 2012 but unfortunately not much is maintained now. It is not as well kept as Wazir Khan Mosque. The mosque is not accessible to tourists as most of the time (other than prayers) it is locked. It is no doubt a heritage and must be kept open for tourists and the general public.