In a city like Islamabad where even the rich think they are under the burden of the rising inflation and price hike, roadside kiosks or Chhappar hotels are blessing for the poor which offer variety of foods, besides providing entertainment to customers.
Most of these dhabas (kiosks) have the facilities of TV sets and tape recorders. Common people, including labourers, students and low-rank government employees visit these dhabas to take meals or to pass a good part of their busy day by watching TV or enjoying music. One can find everything like paratha, vegetables, samosas etc.
The dhabas spring up wherever there are common folk around, but no place to eat exists there. The poor people from across the country have been migrating to the federal capital as they can get better wages here as compared to other cities, but the capital city cannot provide essential food facility within their means. And these dhabas meet that need.
Daud Aslam has been running a dhaba business for more than 40 years in F/8 Sector of Islamabad. His small restaurant is located near Margalla Police Station and the district courts. A number of police officials, lawyers, poor labourers and students daily visit his hotel to have a cup of tea or lunch.
Talking to Pakistan Today, Daud lamented that during his 40-year-long practical life no government could control inflation. He said the increasing rates of food items had led the poor to starvation, directly damaging the business of dhaba . He said a plate of pulse which was available at Rs 80 some years ago is now available at Rs 180. He, however, claimed that he always tried his best to provide food items at very low rates, adding these small restaurants were the only source of food at reasonable rates for the poor.
When asked if there was any arrangement to check rates, he answered there was no restriction of price list. “We decide the rates of items according to the prevailing market prices. For breakfast a paratha costs Rs 20 and a fried egg and a cup of tea Rs15,” he said.
“It is unaffordable to even take a cup of tea in big restaurants or hotels but these dhabas are still providing lunch and dinner at nominal prices,” said Asghar Tahir, a policeman. He added the food quality in these chhappar hotels always swings between average and poor, but the prices are affordable.
However, the dhabas in the capital city are increasing with each passing day as many people consider it a profitable business in the prevailing time when it is difficult to set up other businesses.
Due to their increasing number, many questions are also being raised about the quality of the food served there. “The CDA officials visit our hotels on regular basis to check food quality; they also impose fine if the sale of unhygienic food is found,” said Hamid Raza, another dhaba owner in Sector G/10.
When this scribe visited several dhabas, the situation was totally adverse to Hamid’s claims as the sale of unhygienic food at most of chhapar hotels was in full swing. “We also feel hesitant while eating here due to poor sanitation, but we do come here on account of lower rates,” said Anwar Ali, a student of a nearby government school.
As Islamabad is the city of the elite class, many rich people along with their guests also visit these chappar hotels just to enjoy a dhaba culture. There are all kinds of delights, vegetarian and meaty delicacies. Help yourself with steaming hot lentils and crispy, flaky parathas. These foods are spiced deliciously and you will be left licking your fingers.
Anyway, some steps on the part of the CDA are needed to ensure cleanliness and sale of hygienic food at these dhabas.
